The island – Outpost of Europe is struggling for survival
GAVDOS: the island Calypso a godforsaken island ijn the middle of the Libyan sea, approximately 30 miles off the southern coast of Crete, the ultimate southern frontier of Greece cornerstone of Europe, the latest tourist attraction.


Setting of Gavdos
Even before you set foot on the island you have a good feeling of adventure that does not leave you until you are back home. Unfortunately, you also get a somewhat bitter taste of the perennial problems that haunt the island. For example, the once-a-week scheduled problems that haunt the island. Chora Sfakion of Paleochora to Gavdos, and vice-versa, fails owing to strong winds. In addition, the rather expensive fare is one more deterrent for those visitors willing at heart but weak in pocket. However, it is the habitants of Gavdos that have shouldered the periods of time during the winter period. However, if you are determined to set foot on the island defying the winds, take a couple of Dramamine tablets with you; leave the Cretan mountains behind and yield to the beckoning of Calypso.

Gavdos: the island of Calypso
According to Callimachos, this is the island of Orygia which is mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey as the home of nymph Calypso. Even today the island exerts a mysterious influence on the visitor who, like a modern Odysseus is charmed by its natural beauty. According to historical sources, the island was known by a multitude of names: Kavdos and Klavdos (Plutarch, Ieroklis), Klavdi (The Acts of Apostles), Gozzo (Venetians), and Bougadoz (Turks). During the first Byzantine period Gavdos was populated to such an extent that it necessitated the establishment of a diocese. However, during the Venetian dominion, the island had been abandoned since it had become a pirates’ hide -out. At the turn of the 19th century, the island was registered as the property of the municipality of Anopolis, province of Sfakia. In 1925 it gained the status of community and until 1950 it was under the administrative jurisdiction of the Sfakia province. However, since most of the inhabitants left the island to take roots in Paleochora, Gavdos came under the jurisdiction of the Selino province.

In his book ‘Crete’ Spanakis mentions the names of all the known settlements in Gavdos: Kastri (the capital), Ambelos, Vatsiana, and Metochia, with a total population of 172 during the summer period. Permanent residents are only 42 of which less than five are children.

Following the pattern of development of the tourist industry in Crete, Gavdos gained popularity with tourists attracted by adventure, or the unconventional style of life. It was then that Gavdos came face to face with irrigation and drinking-water problems. The inhabitants are now managing with rain-collection tanks and drillings; typically, the state remained aloof.

Solar cells and generators were installed in the 1980’ to provide a reasonable supply of electricity. A main photovoltaic station supplies Vatsiana and Kastri with power, while small solar installations cater for the hot water needs of the inhabitants. Recently, the National Telephone Organization connected Gavdos to Crete with telephone lines. Today there are fifteen telephone sets on the island; until 1990, however, there were three magnetic ones. In terms of morphology, Gavdos is triangular in shape. The terrain fluctuates from flat to mountainous; the climate is hot and dry with sparse rainfall during the year. A large part of Gavdos is pine-forested while the cedars are famous for their aphrodisiac qualities. In spite of the invasion of tourists, the beaches of the island (Sarakiniko, Corfos, Trypiti, Agios Yiannis, Potamos) maintain the natural beauty, a fact which has officially been acknowledged.

Reaching Carave:
Sailing south for 2-3 hours, depending on the weather, you keep wondering whether the captain of the small boat has set sail to Libya. Suddenly, out of the blue emerge the low, lush hills of Gavdos. Drawing closer and closer, one can distinguish the finer contours of the terrain. A short arm of land extends out to the sea to greet boats and visitors. Behind the breakwater lies Carave, the small fishing village where the visitor boats dock. There are two tavernas which offer fresh fish and tasty local food. If you are looking for accommodation, there are 11 rooms for rent as well as 8 more within a short distance of Carave, towards Sarakiniko. Unfortunately, Carave has lost much of its old distinguishing character and colour. The wickerwork roofs of the tavern as have given way to solid concrete, a misconception of development. Truly, people take the easy way out to solve practical problems.

Castri (the capital):
Located in the centre of Gavdos, approximately 5km from Carave and an altitude of 190m, lies Castri, the capital of Gavdos. The community clinic and community office are under one roof, while the police station and public school are two dilapidated buildings forsaken by the residents long ago. The need to preserve law and order, and provide education has weathered away with the thinning of population. The stone-built country houses are abandoned and gradually disintegrating. However, there are two bars where you can quench your thirst with a cool beer, soft drinks, or have coffee, canned food, or buy…soap for your laundry.

Ambelos:

Located at a distance of 3.5km from Castri and at an altitude of 290m to the south west, Ambelos is the most beautiful part of Gavdos. Its name, Ambelos vineyard), is the only thing left to remind one that the village was once famous for its prolific vineyards and wine production. Today there are two families living in the village while the patches of land where the once famous grapevines used to grow are now either barren or teaming with weeds.

Vatsiana:
In the south-west, 4km from Castri and at an altitude of 220m lies the southernmost settlement of Europe, Vatsiana. The few inhabitants are, perhaps, the most hospitable on earth. Isolation, lack of human contact has turned hospitality into the most priced virtue.

Tours sight scene
Gavdos has a lot to offer to an inquisitive visitor, besides the turquoise sparking sea and the golden stretches of sand. Go for hike on the hills and let your nostrils fill with the intoxicating of herbs. Climb a hill and let your sight relax on the edge of the horizon. How does one get around in Gavdos? Well, there are tractors with carts. However, you may bring in your motorbike, but you have to remember that there are no gas-stations. A mountain bike is a good solution, although the best way to get around is on foot. On a calm day the silence falls heavy on the ears of the visitors. Beaches: Sarakiniko – Corfos – Potamos.

Cape Trypiti:
Literally, it is the southernmost tip of Europe. To get there, turn right at the junction outside Castri. Four kilometers further down the road you reach Vatsiana.

Gavdos, although a small island, does take time to explore if you have no suitable transport (e.g. mountain bike). We have not exhausted the description of the island; we have commented only on those places we visited ourselves, still there is a lot to see. Rooms to rent: Camping
If you like being among people, watching them come and go, then you will probably choose to stay at the port of Gavdos or at Carave. Fortunately, there are eleven rooms available to choose from and two tavernas. In addition, on the way to Sarakiniko there are eight more rooms. On the beaches of Corfos and Sarakiniko there are more rooms available five and twenty-five respectively. This accommodation is right on the beach so you can dive in the sea as soon as you get up from bed early in the morning.

Naturally, most visitors to Gavdos choose to pitch own tents on remote, isolated beaches. I am sure you can find your ideal spot. However, make sure that you do not leave any garbage, or flammable material behind, since there is no fire-department in Gavdos.